Locals often say that you can get four seasons – and their respective weathers – in one day in Nova Scotia: fog rolling around your ankles in the morning, the wind lifting your coattails as you walk through the streets before the rain spills overhead, just for the sun to shine so suddenly that all the weather that came before feels like a mirage.
As the largest city in the Maritime provinces, Halifax offers a huge variety of activities to suit every mood. The local culinary scene is a foodie’s paradise, especially for seafood lovers, and there’s rich culture and fascinating history at every turn. Most unique to the city, each type of weather creates a particular feeling that will last long after you’ve headed back home.
Here’s how to experience the best of Halifax, come rain or shine, fog or wind:
Bask in the sun
Sun’s out, surf’s up: Clear, sunny days are best spent on one of the many beautiful beaches surrounding Halifax. The tiny communities close to these beaches offer intimate experiences, top-notch dining options and chances to truly understand why so many people fall in love with Nova Scotia.
MORNING
Pull up a chair on the sunny patio at Rose & Rooster Café to sip on a perfectly poured latte and tasty breakfast sandwich – or their famous salt-cod fish cakes with homemade maple bacon and baked beans. Head to Ataraxy Farm for a meditative goat yoga class for an invigorating start to your day, and spend time with the farm’s goats, horses and one loveable donkey. This family farm was set up to help those suffering from PTSD, and there’s a big focus on holistic wellness on this tranquil property. Be sure to pick up some luxurious goat milk products all made right there on the farm before you leave.
LUNCH
With a strong focus on locally sourced, organic foods, Lawrencetown Beach Café is a great spot to fill your belly with a delicious sandwich, soup or buttery baked goods. Feel the sun warm your face as you relax with a coffee to admire the dreamy views, then chat with laid-back locals.
AFTERNOON
Catch a surf lesson on Lawrencetown Beach which has been a hotspot for surfers since the sixties and draws pro surfers from the world over. Instructors at schools here pride themselves on getting most first-timers standing up and catching a wave in one lesson. Classes are small, with instructors able to give plenty of attention to students, and they make the goal of surfing attainable to all no matter age or prior experience. Breathe in the salty sea air as you conquer the wild Atlantic Ocean, then go for ice cream at Better Vibe Coffee Co. They serve house-made soft-serve in tantalizing flavours like chocolate brownie and peach vanilla (and “sammies” with ice cream stuffed between freshly baked cookies).
DINNER
At the charming Lupin Dining & Pantry, the tasting menu is dictated by what’s growing in the restaurant garden, and what local producers bring to their door. Intimate 20-seat dinners are served on a patio in the fragrant gardens or in chef Kim MacPherson’s elegant farmhouse. Expect deliciousness such as seared Digby scallops served with smoked paprika polenta and jalapeno grilled corn, or hand-rolled gnocchi with garden pesto, summer squash, fresh mozzarella and heirloom tomato.
SLEEP
Each of the tiny home cottages at Lawrencetown Lodge comes with its own woodfired hot tub, fire pit and chairs, as well as a propane grill. Enjoy the sunset while taking a blissful dip. The rooms, with warm wood paneling and sumptuous queen beds, are as soothing and comfortable as it gets, and the location puts you just minutes from Lawrencetown Beach.
Be refreshed by the rain
Rainy days by the ocean always carry a little romance: the soothing patter on the pavement, that freeing feeling of looking up at the drops pouring down. When you stay on the Halifax waterfront, there’s so much to see and do that you won’t mind getting a little damp to enjoy it all. So, grab an umbrella and set yourself up for an amazing day, and night, out:
MORNING
Grab a cortado, espresso or flat white and a delicious baked treat at Weird Harbour Espresso Bar before heading to the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. Between 1928 and 1971, almost a million immigrants arrived in Canada through Pier 21, including tens of thousands of war brides and their children, and this fascinating museum shares their stories. If your distant relatives arrived in Canada by boat prior to 1935, you may be able to find their landing records with the help of researchers. Take a stroll along the waterfront checking out public art as you go – the woozy “drunken” lampposts are particularly photogenic.
BRUNCH
Dodge the raindrops as you skip your way to Café Lunette for an effervescent, Parisian-inspired brunch. The Croque Monsieur made with gruyere is always a win, and the Butty Croissantwich, stuffed with egg, roasted mushrooms, avocado, bacon, beef fat fries, and dijonnaise is truly decadent.
AFTERNOON
Step outside and breathe in the ocean air and petrichor (that particular, pleasant smell just after a rain). Then indulge your senses with an afternoon at Interlude Spa. Opt for a healing hot stone massage and custom facial, followed by a mani-pedi or hair service, and leave feeling refreshed and ready for a fun night on the town.
DINNER
Share plates of tapas and enticing cocktails at the Spanish-inspired Highwayman. The ultimate indulgence is their seafood tower complete with a dozen fresh oysters, but mains such as seared scallops and pork belly are outstanding. Be sure to save room for a slice of creamy Basque cheesecake.
EVENING
Stroll up to Argyle Street for a perfectly poured Guinness and live music at Durty Nelly’s, where there’s always a fun crowd and maybe even a little dancing. Cap off your fabulous day in the city with a donair at Pizza Corner, a Halifax late-night must-do. Halifax donairs are legendary – they come served with a sweet garlic sauce and are absolutely delicious (and messy, grab napkins!).
SLEEP
With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Halifax harbour, the five-star Muir, Autograph Collection Hotel offers a posh stay with amenities including a spa pool, eucalyptus steam room, sauna and a halotherapy room, making this a perfect retreat on a rainy day. The Muir also has its own yacht, offering tours and excursions to guests.
Get energized in the wind
Breezy days by the ocean blow away the cobwebs. It’s the kind of renewal that you only experience standing on the rocks with your hair whipping around you. This coastal adventure just outside of the city takes you to the heart of what Nova Scotia is all about: stunning ocean views, the very best seafood and warm hospitality that’ll ensure you come back soon.
MORNING
Housed in a historic community hall, Labour Day Picnic Café is a bright airy space that’s perfect for hanging out with the locals while enjoying a delicious breakfast. Start your day with a breakfast egg and ham toasty or hearty tourtière hand pie and a tasty coffee. Before you go, grab a bag of Lure Caramel Co. candies – made on-site and ridiculously decadent – to fuel you up for a hike around Polly’s Cove Trail. This moderately challenging 4km seaside loop along the craggy shore offers glorious views across the water to Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, without the crowds you’ll often find gathered in Peggy’s Cove proper. Feel the sea winds quicken your pulse as you walk, and watch the birds flying against the wind.
LUNCH
Head to Tom’s Lobster Shack in Peggy’s Cove for a fat, juicy lobster roll. Chef Tom’s lobster rolls have been voted the best in Nova Scotia, and you can opt for the natural (just lobster tossed in garlic butter), the classic (with celery, shallots, green onion, and lemon juice), or a spiced-up Cajun roll. You’ll also find delicious options like smoked salmon bagels, chowder and specials when Tom decides to switch up the menu.
AFTERNOON
Peggy’s Cove has long been one of Nova Scotia’s most-visited attractions. Its red and white lighthouse is considered one of the most photographed spots in Canada. The village is quaint and charming, with lobster traps stacked against brightly painted cottages right on the shore, and sweet little stores and galleries to wander around. In addition to being wildly photogenic, Peggy’s Cove remains a working fishing village, so you’ll get a true sense of authentic coastal life when you visit. A brand new architecturally significant and award-winning viewing platform has made Peggy’s Cove fully accessible, and its stunning viewing platform is the perfect perch from which to safely observe the crashing of the waves against this rugged shore.
DINNER
Epic lobster suppers have been served at the historic Shore Club in Hubbards since 1936; it’s a place to experience downhome Maritime cooking at its finest. Along with your lobster, the supper comes with a pound of mussels, an unlimited salad bar, a bread roll and dessert. The Shore Club is also great place to catch a live show – local artists such as Matt Mays, Matt Minglewood and Rich Aucoin perform regularly.
SLEEP
Snugly nestled inside a seaside cottage at gorgeous Oceanstone Seaside Resort, you can safely watch the Atlantic winds dancing over the water. Relax in the on-site hydrotherapy spa, chill in the resort library and enjoy the exquisite dining options that include a fabulous hot buffet breakfast.
Be enveloped by the fog
When the fog rolls in off the ocean, Halifax becomes quieter somehow; there’s a coziness about the city. Foggy days are perfect for exploring, offering a view of Halifax unlike any other. This itinerary embraces the beauty of this maritime weather and introduces you to Dartmouth, a neighbourhood across the harbour from downtown Halifax, filled with great food, eclectic shops and friendly locals.
MORNING
For the best view of fog blanketing the harbour, walk up to the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site and walk the ramparts of the historic fort. Should the urge take you, you could try on the garb of an 19th-century British soldier and even shoot a musket while there. Stroll on to Bliss Caffeine Bar for a delicious breakfast – they offer everything from breakfast tacos to orange chai waffles to smoothie bowls and the coffee is excellent. Wander across the street to the Halifax Public Gardens, a beautifully maintained Victorian garden full of glorious blooms, a traditional bandstand where you may be lucky enough to catch a concert happening, statues and a pretty cafe. Then, walk down to the waterfront to catch the Alderney Ferry to Dartmouth. It’s a 15-minute trip where the fog will kiss your skin, and if it breaks you’ll be rewarded with one of the best views of Halifax.
LUNCH
Café GoodLuck is a charming local favourite known for high-quality coffee, fresh baked goods and locally sourced ingredients. Be sure to sample one of their delicious scones and a perfectly executed latte or London Fog.
AFTERNOON
Downtown Dartmouth is an ideal location for some easy-going shopping and strolling. Over the past few years, many cool, new locally owned stores have opened up on and around Portland Street. Flipping through the vast collection of vinyl at Taz Records is a must. It’s located in a Joel Plaskett-owned building that houses his recording studio in the back (and you never know what musicians might be passing through). For locally made and themed gifts and artwork, head to The Trainyard. New Scotland Clothing Co. offers on-trend Nova Scotia-themed apparel, and Kept Shop offers luxe homewares and pretty jewellery.
DINNER
Dining at The Canteen is a must in Dartmouth. Everything on the menu at this friendly neighbourhood restaurant is a standout dish, but chef Renée Lavallée’s seafood chowder (packed with lobster, haddock, smoked haddock, mussels and bacon) is a show-stopper. Lavallée, who has appeared as a contestant on Top Chef Canada, is a champion of the local food scene.
EVENING
You’ll feel like a local at Dear Friend Bar. This comfortable, 30-seat cocktail bar was opened by multi-award-winning mixologists, and their spins on the classics are super fun. Try the almond croissant old-fashioned, or guava gimlet. Every delicious sip at Dear Friend showcases the artistry that goes into their drinks menu.
SLEEP
The classic and historic Lord Nelson Hotel has beautifully appointed rooms and suites, an elegant lobby with impressive crystal chandeliers and an excellent restaurant on-site. Located just across from the Public Gardens, staying here puts you within walking distance of everything in Halifax’s downtown area and beyond.
Content originally published in partnership with the Globe & Mail.
